So, which sponge cake gives the best results: a traditional Victoria sponge, all-in-one sponge cake or whisked fatless sponge? Delia weighs up the evidence.

I have to admit that since soft margarine came on to the market and sponge cakes can be made very simply by combining all the ingredients in the bowl at once, I very rarely make the classic Victoria sponge, which is a lot more work. However there will probably always be those who prefer cakes made with butter for that bit of extra flavour. Anyway, for those who are new to cake-making or those who would like to experiment, here are my own notes on the differences between the three main methods of sponge-making:
Classic (Victoria) sponge Provides a good flavour and, if skilfully made, should have a light texture; but not quite as moist as an all-in-one sponge cake, especially after storing.
All-in-one sponge This does have a very light texture – it really melts in the mouth. It keeps better than any other type of sponge I’ve made. The flavour is slightly less rich than the Victoria.
Whisked fatless sponge Extremely light in texture but the absence of fat can give a hint almost of rubberiness. This one must be eaten as fresh as possible: it can become stale by the next day.
How to make all-in-one-sponge
Methods of cake-making
The science of cake-making
All about cake tins
How to store cakes
Essential cake-making equipment
What went wrong?
Panic points